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Penelope v1. © Picture by Frank Muders.
[*] Optional accessory
Legacy*: but ask the Worldwide Suppliers. They still may have one.
Type: Rebuildable tank atomizer (RTA).
Diameters: 17mm
w/o connection and drip tip
(liquid capacity)
Filling sytem: Top filling.
Connection Type: 510:
stainless steel, sealed.
Tank / Body: Stainless steel.
Materials: Stainless steel shined.
Liquid control: Yes (via mouthpiece).
Airflow control: No
Air channels: 2
Mouthpiece: Solid mouthpiece.
Wire / Wick: Rebuildable.
Needs NR Wire: Yes.
Wire / Coil Housing: Ceramic
Springomizer:  ?
Logo / Engraving: GG Wings on body.
Serial #: No.
Start / End dates
of production:
~5.2012 - ?


Penelope is the third rebuildable atomizer with tank system of the Golden Greek line, made by Imeo.

Penelope Unassemblad (c)Aftrmth


The slimmest rebuildable atomizer with integrated tank system and adjustable liquid feeding control at the market, works best with Proteus, but will look great on any 14XXX battery PV.

Some Features / Characteristics:

  • Adjustable and rebuildable atomizer
  • Adjustable liquid control
  • 3ml tank capacity
  • 17mm width
  • 45mm length without mouthpiece
  • 63mm length with mouthpiece
  • 156mm total length in combination with Proteus

Videos / Reviews

by Imeo:

GG Family Videos

Tips and useful info

by Imeo

  • 1.- The wick is 3mm fat.
  • 2.- If you want to make the center post sits lower on mods that have a deep center post then you just put a thinner o-ring under the center post of Penelope.
  • 3.- It doesnt leak at all.
  • 4.- After every refilling we try to close the refilling cap slow so Penelope will not get overflooded.
  • 5.- If the o-ring comes out of the cap while you open the cap to refill (never happened to me), you just put it via mouthpiece until it sits on the body and then you put the cap. When I was making Penelope I thought that o-ring wouldnt be able to sit always inside cap but then I realised that o-ring is fat so it always sits inside the cap
  • 6.- The center post doesnt have a cut on its end like Odysseus's post has, so its much stronger but its not able to take a small o-ring on it, so Penelope cant be used on UFS.
  • 7.- The ceramic channel is 2,5mm in width and 2mm deep. The metal channel is 3mm in width and 2mm deep
  • 8.- The base of the ceramic housing is not fat (3mm) like old style of Odysseus but only 0,5mm
  • 9.- The ceramic has no legs like Odysseus's ceramic so legs cant brake because they just dont exist lol
  • 10.- The width of the ceramic "ear" is 1mm instead of 2mm on Odysseus
  • 11.- The hole inside the ceramic is 6mm instead of 7mm on Odysseus. My first prototype was at 4mm like the CE2 ceramic but it was too small for my tastes. I finally managed to make it at 6mm. That is a big room to make coils inside ceramic like you can do on Odysseus
  • 12.- Like Odysseus, if you feel even a small gurgling, please close the liquid control until the liquid gets vaped. Dont let gurgling go too big because it will be difficult to vape proper for a long time. Also, if you feel gurgling for a long time its because liquid came inside your mod's connector. So please remove the liquid from your mod's connector and if you like you can blow air from the mouthpiece of the Penelope while Penelope is out of your mod. If you have a small gurgling and you want to get rid of it quickly then put upsidedown your mod and the excess liquid will absorbed by the wick
  • 13.- Penelope have wings engraved on it. Proteus will have serial, "The GG" and "by Imeo".
  • 14.- Make short connections between R and NR wire so the fat 3mm wick will sit proper inside Penelope's channels.
  • 15.- Penelope hits harder than Odysseus because of the thin hole of its mouthpiece.
  • 16.- Penelope takes 3ml of liquid, its at 47,5mm in length and 17mm in width and it has a liquid control via mouthpiece.
  • 17.- It fits on all mods.
  • 18.- It has adjustable center pole.
  • 19.- Better to close the liquid control if you plan to not use Penelope for enough hours.
  • 20.- Liquid's pressure inside Penelope is bigger than inside Ody so dont open the liquid control as much as you do on Ody to feed the wick.
  • 21.- Wick has to cover all the area of the ceramic and metal slot.
  • 22.- Penelope is the most quick and the most easy to be made atomizer to my opinion after the ready R-NR wires that I made and it doesnt require any tools.
  • 23.- Put vaseline to the lower o-ring (that is under the nut that keeps the positive wire) to avoid this nut get unscrewed while you unscrew the rebuildable part and makes the unscrewing of the rebuildable part hard.
  • 24.- O-rings for Penelope are three:
    • One around the base: 11mm (ID) x 1.5mm (Cross section (thickness))
    • One inside the refilling cap: 8mm (ID) x 3mm (Cross section (thickness))
    • One under the lower nut of the center pin: 3mm (ID) x 1.8mm (Cross section (thickness))

-The small plastic that looks like an o-ring goes between center pin and ceramic housing-

  • 25.- The wire that will be connected to the center post must go via ceramic slot. The other wire will go via metallic slot and both of them will be covered from the wick.
  • 26.- To keep ready wire in good contition with no fear that it will break during putting it around the wick, then make 2 turns of it around wick, then left it from your hand, then do 2 more turns etc. That way you dont twist hard its connections.
  • 27.- The center pin is brass-nickel plated. More nickel that the apropriate covered the brass pin, so the lower nut that keeps positive wire in place doesnt screw all the way down to keep wire in place. So please screw-unscrew with pliers the nut 2-3 times and it will be like butter.
  • 28.- Penelope works on all mods. On mods that have a flush top like provari you screw a little more the rebuildable part until center pole comes out of the 510 threads at 0,5mm.
  • 29.- If mouthpiece doesnt turn easy then lube the o-ring inside the refilling cap and dont screw very hard this cap. Stop screwing it when you feel a nice resistance from the o-ring. That way o-ring seals very well and doesnt grab the mouthpiece hard.
  • 30.- The center pin has to be screwed very well to the ceramic housing, so when you turn the lower connection nut to grab the wire, the center pin mustnt move together with this nut.
  • 31.- To avoid ceramic housing to get unscrewed while you turn on-off the liquid control, please screw the big ring that keeps ceramic housing in place and then screw well the ceramic housing against the base. That way the big ring will get very well screwed on penelope's base.
  • 32.- I have some reports that you cant easy unscrew the rebuildable part of Penelope. The reason is that the o-ring grabs the nut that secures the positive wire. I was thinking of this issue and the solution is very simple (not absolutely sure until 2 days pass to check this solution). If instead of the existing o-ring you put the o-ring that goes on the lower slot of the older pin of Ody (the one that you put on the Ody's pin when you use Ody in UFS mode), then problem is solved.

Please attention. You stop screwing the rebuildable part before you see that the center pole is out of the base's 510 threads more than 1 mm.

  • 33.- A new way rto connect the negative wire for a better connection:

Connecting wires on Penelope (English)

  • 34.- If the nut that holds the positive wire under the center pin cant totally screw on the pin then please check from 7:15 min to 9:00 min this video:

The Golden Greek Teil 11: Die Penelope (German) - by Navy_Lifeguard

Penelope O-Rings?

See the Golden Greek O-Rings guide

See Also

Golden Greek